copying a wrap skirt pattern
April 12 2012, 6:25 pm
i bought this vintage denim wrap skirt on ebay last year, and wore it all summer long. i need another one, so i'm straight up copying it. i can't endorse copying anything, but i really want this in khaki. so let's flex our morals for the moment, and knock this off. it's been ages since i've done pattern work, but the construction was simple. 5 panels, 2 pockets, 2 darts, 1 waistband. gonna leave the bird off this time (sorry dude).
materials:
- pattern paper (i purchased a huge roll in the garment district for cheap)
- self healing cutting mat
- scissors
- pencil
- clear plastic ruler
- tracing wheel (death wheel, wheel of pain, whatever you want to call it)
- tailor's awl
tracing the garment
- mark the center of front panel with pins. line up center front with edge of pattern paper.
- use the death wheel to mark the pattern paper by rolling over the edges and seams. use the awl to mark the corners of the pocket.
- with the pencil and ruler, connect the dots on pattern paper. add a seam allowance to the top and side seam (mine is 1/2") and add a hem (mine is 2").
- cut pieces out and label.
- trace the pockets with the wheel of pain onto pattern paper. add seam allowance to the sides and bottom, and a hem to the top edge.
- trace the back panels onto pattern paper. add seam allowance to the top edge and side seam, and a hem to the bottom and back opening.
- trace side panel onto pattern paper, including the dart.
- measure the top width of the dart. on the pattern paper, mark that width on both sides of the dart line. connect those points the the end of the dart.
- at the top edge of pattern, add the width of the dart to both front and back side seams. connect that point to the hip on the back side seam, and taper to the hem at the front side seam.
- add seam allowance to the top and side seams, and hem at the bottom edge.
- mark the seams so you can tell which is the front seam and the back (with a notcher, or by cutting out triangles).
i didn't do a pattern piece for the waistband because it's just a simple rectangle. it's easier to use a clear ruler. now that i've got all the pieces assembled, it's time to do a test run. did i do it right? will it be an exact copy of the original? there's only one way to find out.