vogue couturier 2771 muslin: phase 1

field notes. frustrations.

vogue patterns are know for their difficulty- none more so than the vintage couturier series. and i knew this when buying the pattern. but it's so cute. and the fit looks so flattering. and it ain't easy to find a vintage couturier pattern in a size 8. they are rare birds. it was a sign.

a sign that i am a glutton for punishment. this pattern is bonkers. at first it seemed like finishing it in two days was legitimately attainable. then things took a turn for the impossible. time to start taking notes- cause there's no way to remember all this if i make it to the real fabric.

many pieces:

• front and back sleeves cut on the bias.
• double check every piece for seam allowance size. half are 5/8" and half are 7/8". some seams are BOTH(?!)

underlining:

• instead of the entire dress being lined, each piece is lined prior to sewing. this means that seam allowances will be visible on the interior.

back waist seam:

• bottom panel is wider than the top panel and must be eased. instructions show this area to have gathers, but sketch on packet shows this as a smooth seam. adding a 1/4" or 1/3" to top panel at center back (don't forget to add to top collar facing too), will create less easing of bottom panel and a smoother seam.

scalloped pockets:

• not as difficult as anticipated, but still had an issue- the clipped seam allowance is visible in the corner when pressed.

bust seam:

• never seen a bust seam where the easing was on the less curved side. sewing this seam stinks. it took forever to line up the pieces correctly. much pressing was needed for it to lay correctly, without wrinkles.
• a note on top stitching: it's difficult to keep the curviest part of the bust from wrinkling during the machine top stitching. perhaps this could be a hand stitch, making it a bit more couture. and 20 times as long to finish.

general notes to date:

• at this point, it fits like a glove. there is no room for dessert at lunchtime. adding 1/4"- 1/3" to the top back panel should allow for eating. and breathing.

phase 2:

• oh dear. this is the point when i realized that notes need to be recorded asap. tried twice already to sew the scalloped raglan seam, but having major difficulty wrapping my brain around it. the pieces are not fitting together in any sane or reasonable way. deep breath. count to ten. fingers crossed. third time's a charm...