vintage patterns: silk shell

April 5 2012, 8:38 pm

a simple shape and a crazy print are unstoppable. like thelma and louise unstoppable.

i purchased a vintage silk print on etsy with the intention of making pajama pants. my mind was changed as soon as i saw simplicity pattern 5836. it's the shell of my dreams- boxy, with a bateau neckline, sleeveless, but still covers armpit chunkiness. just precisely what i've been looking for. with some minor adjustments:

the fit was ever slightly too wide
the pattern used facings, but i opted to line the whole thing (as i'm known to do) in a very lightweight synthetic.
the pattern calls for a regular zipper, but i had an invisible on hand.

there are only 3 pieces- 1 front, and 2 back. cut them out of both the shell and the lining materials. i like to start sewing the lining first, that way if there are fit issues, or i mess it up, it's not worth crying over.

adjusting the fit:

follow pattern for stay stitching and sewing darts. when front piece is sewn to the back pieces, check the fit.
place a top that fits you perfectly over the pieces. check to make sure what you're sewing is similar in size. mine was at least 5/8" too big.
move the pattern in from the previous edge and cut off the excess.
continue to sew the front and back pieces of both the lining and the shell material.

attaching lining to a sleeveless shell:

press the shoulder seams of the lining 5/8" from edge, towards the wrong side of the fabric.
pin the lining to the shell, right sides together and stitch the necklines and armholes, leaving the shoulder seams open. trim and clip the curves. press the seams open.
turn right side out and press well.

match shoulder seams on the shell, right sides together. sew seams, keeping the lining out of the way (it's a bit tricky).
press seams open and trim.
tuck seam allowance into the lining, and baste the lining shoulder seams closed.

invisible zipper

sew invisible zipper to the shell material, keeping the lining out of the way. sew the center back seam of the shell and press open.
sew the center back seam in the lining, ending where the invisible zipper will begin. press the seam open to the top edge.
turn right side out, and baste the lining to the interior of the zip, keeping the teeth free (the photo hasn't been basted yet)
add hook and eye to neckline (i still need to do that)

this was the first time i've ever lined something sleeveless, and it wasn't that bad. this pattern was the perfect practice- and i love the results. i might make 20 more. it's not going to help my vintage silk print addiction, that's for sure. it looks fantastic with the braided seed bead necklace, but i think the colors will be perfect with the souvenir pressed penny bracelet.